Engineered Hardwood Floor Installation

Q: I am nearly finished with my DIY engineered wood floor installation (my first). The floor is in my basement and it is installed over Dri-core tiles. For added protection, I laid down appropriate matting as a moisture barrier. I stapled the floor down but now I have a couple of follow up questions:
1) Staple down installation, I stapled every 12-16 inches rather than 8″. Will this impact my floor, and if so, how?
2) Do you have any idea what the load this floor can bear is (its a 9 ply floor). I have a treadmill and home gym that I want to put on top using rubber matting as additional cushion.
3) Stair nosing. Can you provide me with either any photos or sites that show how to miter the ends of stair nose where it overlaps the wall (cut a mitered return).
Thanks for the help.
Anthony
A: Based on how you have stapled, the only worry you should have is that the floor can potentially move a bit more, as it is not as firmly anchored. Realistically, it should not be a huge issue, but potentially it can cause problems. Without knowing what specific floor you have, the floor itself should be fine to bear the load you are mentioning. Floors with 7 or more plies are very good at bearing loads, but keep in mind this is dependent on the quality of the floor itself. Some floors have many plies using a very cheap substrate, which leads to a lower quality product. As long as you use the cushions as you intend, I don’t foresee any issues with putting such gym equipment on your floor.
In regards to your stair issue, this is actually a bit easier than you think. Based on your description, I’m guessing you have an open face set of stairs and this is where you intend to do your miter work. If so, all you really need to do is make 45 degree cuts on your stair nosing so you can make 90 degree angles to cover the sides of the tread. Below I’ve included a quick sketch to illustrate this. Just make sure you take your time on this portion of cutting and installation to ensure it looks good.